Soraepogu, the Traditional Market Where Autumn Tastes Best
Along with a briny, salty scent, the sound of prawn shells crackling and popping on the grill fills the air. Just as the shells curl and redden and the savory smell grows stronger, the woman at the next stall waves her hand and says, "They're done now — go ahead and peel them." This is Soraepogu in Incheon, a traditional market at its most delicious in autumn.
At a glance: Location Soraepogu, Namdong-gu, Incheon · Getting there walk from Exit 2 of Soraepogu Station on the Suin-Bundang Line · Seasonal specialties spring blue crab, autumn tiger prawn, salted seafood during kimjang (kimchi-making) season · How to enjoy buy tiger prawns at the market, then pay a seating fee at a nearby tent bar or grill house and cook them yourself
Soraepogu was originally a harbor where small fishing boats came and went, and even today, just a few minutes' walk from the station, you'll find a narrow waterway crowded with small fishing boats moored side by side. What these boats bring in at dawn is what ends up on the stalls that day, and in autumn, tiger prawns take center stage. Tiger prawns are large-bodied, thick-shelled shrimp known for having the most flesh in the single autumn season, making it hard to find shrimp this size at other times of year.
Walking through the market alleys, you'll find rubber tubs full of live, flapping tiger prawns lined up at every stall, and once the haggling is done, a nearby grill house will salt-grill them for you on the spot. Watching the prawns cook over coarse salt as their shells turn a deep orange, and then the moment of pulling off the head of a cooked prawn and popping the plump flesh into your mouth, are pleasures found only at this market. Pair the salty-sweet flesh with a bowl of spicy clam soup simmered in advance, and it makes for a complete autumn meal.
Thanks to being directly accessible by subway, it makes a great day-trip destination, and once you've also watched the sunset settle over the harbor at dusk, you'll realize it's hard to find this much autumn atmosphere so close to Seoul.